It is raining on the house of Anne Frank and on the tourists herded together under the shadow of their umbrellas, on the perfectly silent tourists who would rather be somewhere else but who wait here on stairs so steep they must rise to some occasion high in the empty loft, in the quaint toilet, in the skeleton of a kitchen or on the map— each of its arrows a barb of wire— with all the dates, the expulsions, the forbidding shapes of continents. And across Amsterdam it is raining on the Van Gogh Museum where we will hurry next to see how someone else could find the pure center of light within the dark circle of his demons.